This is a version of the Corner Pocket. It is a combination of mesh and traditional that creates a visible channel for the ball. For this pocket, I had a piece of mesh that was specially made for the job, but you can cut up a piece of regular mesh if you’d like. Just decide how many diamonds wide you want in your strip, and cut right on the outside of those diamonds. Burn the sides of the mesh so that it doesn’t unravel, though.

For this pocket, I used one 2.5 foot top string, two 3.5 foot strings for the vertical runners, two 6 foot crosslace strings for the twists, and your normal sidewall strings (1.5 feet each).

To start, I strung my sidewalls. This is almost always my first step. If your head has a lot of sidewall holes, you’ll probably want to use a good number of them to give you more options for your crosslace. Then I folded the top row of my mesh over so that there are six diamonds at the top. You should start by coming UP through the outer diamond, and then doing a normal hitch through the scoop. My how-to picture might look different, but that’s because I changed it after I got all the way across. Just look at the final “top” picture and go with that. I centered two diamonds on the two middle scoop holes, and really stretched the mesh across the top.

Next I folded the 3.5 foot strings in half and made a loop to go around the outer scoop knot. This is just to anchor them at the top and outermost part of the mesh. From here, I weaved them down the outer row of diamonds, just like you would a woven shooting string. Since the Proton Power doesn’t have too many holes near the bottom, I used the lowest sidewall hole and connect the two halves in a knot near the bottom. When you do the other side, make sure to keep them at an even depth so that your channel is even.

Now it’s time for the crosslace. Start up at the top and go in the highest sidewall hole. Go to the first hole on the side of the mesh and go down through it. Make sure you go between the twisting string that is woven through it, so that you get one of them. This will help the durability of the mesh. Make a loop around it, and then twist the nylon around itself to get a good, horizontal twist. Go back to the sidewall, loop around it, and then repeat the process with the next lowest diamond. Keep your crosslace anchored on the sidewall as much as possible so that it doesn’t slide around at all. A general rule I go by is that I always want my crosslace anchored below the diamond it is even with. That way it provides some resistance. When you get to the bottom, tie it off. Do the other side exactly the same way. Lastly, put in a bottom string connecting the mesh to the throat holes.

Finally, throw in your shooters. I used the rows of diamonds in between the crosslace-connections for a smoother release. When those are in, grab a ball. The best part about this pocket is that you can easily adjust the depth of the whole pocket by using the mesh-runners. See the pictures below for a visual guide. Good luck with this one, and if you have any questions, post them up here and I’ll answer them.






























  • cranky

    Excellent work, once again, McCool.

  • Ben Wildman

    would this this be a good pocket for d-pole?

  • Max McCool

    It would be yeah. But if it was my stick, I’d go with the Penny pocket, which is basically the same thing except you make the mesh only 3 diamonds wide. It gives it a real nice channel.

  • Loren

    a good way to make that pocket is have a stretcher pre where you want the pocket to be

  • harris

    if i was using a six diamond, would i use only one diamond?( to your three )

  • braden

    what is this stringing recommended for

  • Harris – I’d probably go with a 3-2-3-2 mesh pattern with the 6 diamond. If you want it really narrow, go 2-1-2-1, but I’m not too sure how that would work out. If you try it, let me know. With one piece of 6 diamond, you should be able to make both different kinds, so maybe try both.

    braden – I’d recommend this pocket for D poles and middies, as it has pretty good hold and a nice channel. The release isn’t always the quickest, so it’s probably not the best for attack. It’s also good for people that know how to string mesh and want to start learning about how to string traditional.

  • brian

    How well does this work when its wet? Will the side wall strings ruin the throw when it is wet?

  • thats super beast. i’m gonna play around with my crappy old back-up bionic. i’m gonna dye it, buy a kryptolyte and put this sick pocket on it. thanks McCool!!!!

  • actully im gonna get te new swizzbeat

  • Tom DeBiasio

    dude this is the sweetest stringing job ever.. im gonna try it

  • Andrew

    im gonna try this with dlsdu u think that will work good?

  • Andrew

    Do you think dlsdu would qork well?

  • Andrew

    my bad for 2 comments

  • You’ll have to forgive me. At one point I knew all the mesh code. DLSDU = ?? I know it’s from stringers shack, but I haven’t used mesh in forever.

  • Andrew

    its double layer soft mesh that doesnt bag a lot and is good in the rain. Do you think that would work good on this type of stringing

  • Yeah, it’s going to give you a nice soft feel. You really have to be careful cutting the sides and burning them though. Soft mesh will unravel like hell if you don’t take the time to melt all the spots you cut.

  • Andrew

    alright thnks ill try it out

  • adam

    How well would this work on a brine voyce with a lower pocket for attack?


    Awejafsomae Dudje I am tottallay GOing tp thry thi!!!s

    P.S. I typed that wwith my toes

  • Jroc2030

    this is sick but what kind of mesh are u using cuz it looks smaller than normal

    • duckymomo

      you use a regular mesh just cut it and burn edges

    • duckymomo

      you use a regular mesh just cut it and burn edges

    • duckymomo

      you use a regular mesh just cut it and burn edges

  • Jody Standal

    can u string mine for 15 bucks ive been trying this for 5 days and it will not work